Sunday, October 7, 2012

A short course in photography: Chapter 7

Chapter 7: Lighting


  • direct light:
    • high in contrast, bright lights, dark darks
    • sharp shadows
    • may lose some detail in the darks
    • allow you to use fast shutter speeds and shallow depths of field
    • try adding fill light to retain details
  • directional/ diffused light
    • intermediate in contrast
    • shadows still present, just softer
    • occurs on hazy/ foggy days or in shade
    • indoors lit by window or skylight
    • using a flash that is reflected off another source
  • diffused light
    • low in contrast
    • colors/ tones appear less vibrant and more muted/ pastely
    • light hits subject on all sides
    • very overcast day
    • does not allow you to use small aperture or fast shutter speed
  • use what's available
  • if you find a good picture, you can figure out a way to expose it correctly
  • high ISO is helpful when light is dim (inside)
  • front lighting
    • flattens subject
    • is similar to flash connected to camera
    • fewer shadows
    • pointed directly at the subject
  • light is usually most pleasing when it resembles daylight and consists on one strong light source
  • shadows reveal lighting
  • high 45 lighting
    • placed high and to the side of the camera
    • commercial portraits
    • creates roundness
    • shows more texture
  • side light
    • 90 degree angle to the camera
    • mimiks sunlight at sunrise or sunset
    • sometimes used to dramatize portraits
  • backlighting
    • also referred to as edge rim lighting
    • used in multiple light set ups to bring out texture
    • also used to separate subject from background
  • top lighting
    • when light comes from directly above
    • not desired, but not uncommon
    • lighting outdoors at noon 
    • indoors underneath light
    • use fill light to lighten up shadows
  • bottom lighting
    • looks odd in portrait because light almost never naturally comes from below
    • often creates menacing effect
    • sometimes seen in ads
  • color and b/w negatives are less sensitive to contrast than digital cameras
  • when shadows are 3+ stops different than lights, fill light is useful
  • better to use fill light than compensate in printing
  • outdoors
    • use fill light so subject doesn't have to look directly into the sun
    • use when photographing small objects up close such as detail in a flower
  • a reflector is a good source of fill light
    • white sheet
    • white card
    • aluminized space blanket
  • to keep from overpowering subject, fill light is usually farther away than the main light source
  • the more simple the set up, the more relaxed your subject will be
    • less is more
  • indoors a small window will create harder shadows than a large one
  • main light plus reflector fill is simplest set up
    • main source pointed at umbrella reflector
    • another reflector on other side
  • continuously burning (incandescent) lamps
    • plus into outlet
    • excellent for portraits/ still life/ stationary object that allow time to adjust
    • exposure determined normally
  • flash bulbs
    • portable/ battery powered
    • each produces one brief powerful flash, then replaced
    • older, not used as much
    • used by press photographers
  • electronic flash
    • "strobe"
    • most popular portable light
    • use to shoot fast moving/ unposed photos
    • battery or electrical plug
    • come in camera unit, more powerful separate
  • cameras with leaf shutters synchronise with flash at any speed
  • others can usually synchronise only up to 1/300
  • automatic flash
    • has sensor that detects amount of light reflected during flash
    • flash terminates when exposure is adequate
    • may give less accurate reading if too close, too far
    • most accurate when subject is centered in frame
  • the farther the subject is from flash unit
    • the dimmer the light
    • the more you need to open the lens aperture
  • to calc flash exposure:
    • distance light travels to subject
    • guide number (rating of flash with specific film speed)
    • divide distance by guide number to get f stop
  • bounce flash travels extra distance
    • same calculation as above, except use distance to reflective surface plus reflective surface to subject
  • changing shutter speed does not affect flash exposure
    • first time calculating f-stop  use test roll of film with different calculations to see what yields best result
  • scene lit by flash may not be evenly lit
  • flash bounce from the side gives soft flattering light when taking a portrait
  • bounced light from above creates more natural light that mimics daylight

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